Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Estes Quinstar #7241 Build, Part 11, Finished

This was a fun build and turned out better than I thought it would.
With just the flat, upward facing pieces filled and smooth the model looks good.
The 24mm engine conversion was easy to do. Will it survive the boost or reach the Speed Of Balsa? Who knows.
It'll be flown with 18mm engines first and the D12 engine later.
For a lot of 1/16" thick balsa, the structure seems very strong.

Here's the views from the side with the launch lug and from the rear.
To keep the weight down, I didn't worry about getting paint in every nook and cranny. I just shot the flat surfaces and let the paint fall where it wanted. You can still see some bare surfaces if you really look.

Estes 2016 Catalog Online

The new Estes 2016 Catalog is online! To see it, CLICK HERE

Upcoming new products include a BT-60 based Nike Smoke and the Estes Shuttle. The "Apollo 11" Saturn V is scheduled to be re-released in June, this time with E12-4 or E30-4 power. This Saturn V has plastic fins, a big improvement vacu-form. Another bring-back is the Super Nova.
The Porta Pad II (with lightning bolt legs) is now molded in red plastic.

I was surprised by how many clearance models are still listed in the catalog. The original three PSII kits are shown, but not the Leviathan.
No prices are posted yet.

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Estes Quinstar #7241 Build, Part 10, Undercoat and Red Paint

The assembled model was hit with a light coat of gloss white. I wanted to use Rusto Red Metallic. It's a bit transparent and would need the white underneath it.

I thought I might get by with Titebond M&TG fillets on just the upper part of the model. But, the bottom areas really showed the open joints and seams.
I went back and added more fillets to the lower half.

Most all the surfaces got a light sanding before the red was shot.

All the flat upper surfaces were filled for three reasons.
The upper flats are the most visible on the finished model.
There would be less drag without adding much weight.
The decals would adhere better to the smoother surfaces.

TIP: Set the decals on the model (still on the backing) before soaking to get an idea how they will be centered.

Monday, February 8, 2016

Estes Quinstar #7241 Build, Part 9, Removeable 18mm Mount

The 24mm BT-50 tube and ring are glued into the center hole of the cage.
Glue was dripped down the side walls and the tube slipped into place with the centering ring (engine block) at the top.

Glue together the 18mm mount as shown in the instructions but the top 20/50 ring is left off. That ring is already inside the BT-50 now in the cage.

A rubber band was used to keep the split ring ends down and against the body tube wile the glue dried.

The open top of the BT-20 mount slides into the 10/50 centering ring at the top of the BT-50.
I had to rub down the burrs on the inside of the centering ring so the top of the BT-20 tube would slip in easier.

Here's the 18mm mount in the 24mm tube. It's not glued in, but slipped into the 20/50 ring already in the top of the BT-50 tube.
The rear notched ring is flush with the end of the BT-50 tube.

A small strip of tape would wrapped around the back end to keep it in place. The fit is pretty tight, it might not even need the tape.
The ejection charge would blow out the top, it might not kick out the engine mount.

Friday, February 5, 2016

Estes Quinstar #7241 Build, Part 8, Launch Lug and 24mm Mount

It's a blog post day - Free internet at the Starbuck's in Arruba!

One of the "L" pieces has a hole in it for the launch lug to slide through.
Apply a line of glue and slide the lug into place. Be sure that glue doesn't get into the lug.
The 24mm mount is actually pretty simple.
Glue a 20/50 centering ring (not the split ring) even with the end of the BT-50 tube. A D engine will be friction fitted or simply tape wrapped for retension. There isn't enough room on the sides for an engine hook.

The top hole in the bulkhead is sized for the 18mm mount.
It'll have to be widened to the inside diameter of a 24mm engine.

Wrap some 220 grit around a 13mm engine casing and widen the hole diameter.

Set the BT-50 tube into the cage with the centering ring up against the bulkhead.
Check to be sure the hole is slightly wider than the middle of the centering ring.
To protect the inside hole sides wall from the ejection charge, rub some glue into the balsa.

Thursday, February 4, 2016

Estes Quinstar #7241 Build, Part 7, Star Points and Spin Flats

There's FREE internet in Curacao, so today - A build post!

The star points are glued next.

You probably could sand an angle so they fit without a separation line. That would shorten the width and require larger ones to be cut out.

The angled spin tab flats glue to the outside.

The structure is getting pretty strong now.

Flat center horizontals are last.
The tabs on the "L" pieces fit into the slots.
The outside ends didn't quite meet up with the cage sides.

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Estes Quinstar #7241 Build, Part 6, Fillets and Bulkhead

Flip over the cage so it can be pressed down and even on the tabletop.

Before adding glue, the BT-50 was slid into the center cavity so the pentagon shape would be even. One of the centering rings was slid into the compressed BT-50 to keep it round.

A line of glue was applied and smoothed with Q-tips. Some areas are hard to reach with your fingertip.

There are three pentagon pieces. The two smaller "H" pieces are glued together to make a thick stop bulkhead.

Mine was too small and slipped right through the center of the cage. I probably sanded off too much of the burnt laser edge.
A wrap of card stock strip was glued around the outside to increase the diameter.

The instructions have you glue the H pieces into the cage and then glue the "I" piece on top.
I glued the I piece to the Hs then glued the assembly into the cage top.

The top pentagon bulkhead is glued in place.