Monday, August 31, 2015

Old Estes Kits?

David Carllucy commented on a blog post:
"Have you seen these old kits?"

No I hadn't seen this one -
CLICK HERE to check it out.

This is a bagged Estes SCORPION, a Design Of The Month winner from July 1969.
I've heard that Estes did short runs of some contest winners. It was mentioned on TRF before. Maybe a market test?
To see the plans, CLICK HERE

Here's what the Scorpion looked like.
Nope, it's not a boost glider. It has standard parachute recovery.
LOTS of wing area. On a windy day it might go horizontal.
It reminds me of the Skydart design.

And the second "kit" -

CLICK HERE to see the eBAY listing.
To see the plans, CLICK HERE
I would guess these were released at the same time, both have the four color toppers and no face cards.

Am I going to bid? No.
Still, a real find for a collector.

Quest Magnum Sport Loader #3012 Build, Part 1 Parts

I have built a few of these before, but not for the blog.
A few years ago, Bill Stine contacted me to make one for NARAM demos. That model is on the Quest website. Tim at Apogee needed one built for his catalog. That model is shown on the Apogee website.
I have two unopened Magnum kits - here we go.

Here's all the parts. For a medium sized, two engine cluster model it's a great value. The current Quest retail price is $17.84
Two engine cluster rockets are great performers. No clip whips are needed.
Enclosed are water slide decals and two 14" Quest parachutes.
The payload capsule is very well made. This kit has an extended payload section. You could launch two eggs if you wanted.

The parts of interest, left to right:
The thick walled payload tube
Egg or Payload Capsule (Same as in the Quest Courier)
Blue adapter ring
Black nose cone coupler
Thin yellow engine tubes
Spring steel engine hooks
Inset: Letramax laser cut "Half Moon" cluster centering rings

Two sheets of die-cut balsa are included.

These fin sheets may have come from an older kit, I don't know which one.
All the fins I marked with the "X" are discarded. But save the duplicate fourth fins, the larger lower and smaller upper.

Sunday, August 30, 2015

Clear Body Rocket?

Cutaway display models were brought up on YORF and I remembered this gem at JimZs website: CLICK HERE

A clear ST-10 body with a ST-5 stuffer tube inside.
I especially like the spiral decor on the model on the right under "Construction Tips".
It was the second place winner in a 1968 Centuri design contest.
Just food for thought!

Estes Yellow Jacket #2008 Carded Downscale Finished

An 1/8" wide elastic shock cord was tied to the Kevlar line. The end of the elastic was tied to the nose cone lug. A streamer is tied to the elastic shock cord.

Next time I would use a darker, more opaque setting on my printer. The yellow looks fine but you can see a difference between the sprayed plastic nose cone and the tube wrap print. Oh well, done!
It will fly with a 1/2A3-4t and scream with A3-4t engines.

The PDF is available for FREE! Just print, glue and fly.
Contact me at and request the Yellow Jacket PDF.
All my past carded down scales are also available at Wayne Hill's Rocketry Blog - CLICK HERE

Saturday, August 29, 2015

Estes Yellow Jacket #2008 Carded Downscale, Part 4, Engine Block

I didn't have any BT-5 engine blocks handy. Sometimes they fall apart when cutting 1/4" segments from engine casings.
I used two 1/4" lengths cut from a scrap BT-5 tube.
Notice the used casing set inside the body tube for support.
The segments were split with scissors.

The first segment was set tightly into the body tube and overlap marked. The segment was removed and the overlap glued.

The second segment was glued inside the first. The inside overlap was set in opposite the first segment seam.

Here's the finished engine block.
The Kevlar line was tied to set next to the recess overlap, no notch needed.

The block was glued inside the BT-5 so a 13mm T engine would extend 3/16" out the back.

Clothespins Clamp Idea TIP

Naoto Kimura send me a comment on the FSI Fin Alignment Tool:

"Speaking of wooden clothespins, turning them inside-out and backwards changes their clamping characteristics -- increased reach, and due to change in leverage, they're less apt to crush balsawood (you still want to put cardboard plates to spread the clamping force over wider area to reduce possibility of crushing)."

The picture above and more reading is at the Photo Ataku Blog, 
Naoto included this link: CLICK HERE

For a better reach in a tight area, I've done this in the past.
The clothespin pictured in the 
Photo Ataku Blog makes an even smaller clamp end.

Friday, August 28, 2015

Estes Yellow Jacket #2008 Carded Downscale, Part 3, Body and Lug Wrap

Trace a straight line down the length of the BT-5 tube.

Use glue stick over the entire printed skin. Work quickly before the glue stick coat dries.
Set the cut edge down the pencil line and wrap around the tube.
Wrap an inch, then smooth with your fingers. Then continue wrapping another inch. This helps prevent any gaps or wrinkles in the applied skin.

Burnish down the overlap seam edge.
If you didn't get the seam to close, sneak some glue stick under the overlap seam on the tip of your knife.

The 1" long launch lug is covered like the body tube using the glue stick.