Wednesday, April 1, 2015
The backing was peeled off and the orange strips set in place, the ends against the lower tunnels.
I was concerned about the Avery label paper being advertised with "Ultrahold Adhesive".
It did allow for placement, lifting and re-positioning before being burnished down with a Q-tip.
Why did I use spray painted, self-adhesive label paper?
I didn't feel like doing a complex mask. The chances of paint lifting is bigger when doing tough masks.
The painted adhesive backed paper does have a raised edge. It doesn't bother me. The vertical "U. S. ARMY" will probably be cut from vinyl. The orange color lines are clean.
It might bother a true scale builder, but that's their problem. I'll get it close enough to capture the feel of the old Estes kit.
Tuesday, March 31, 2015
A strip of paper was wrapped and pressed into the tunnel joints to get a width estimate for the orange bands.
The orange bands were cut off the painted orange self adhesive label sheet.
The Estes kit band decals were 1" wide.
Everything in this slightly smaller (BT-100) Pershing was multiplied by .995 to get the smaller sizes. The band ended up being cut at an obvious .995" wide.
The band halves were carefully cut out.
Set them side by side to be sure they are the same size.
You'll want the both sides the same where they meet up around the other side of the tube.
Monday, March 30, 2015
Here's the lower body after spray painting with the Testor's olive drab.
That little three ounce can covered the entire lower body and there should be enough left for the lower nose section.
Decals could be used but they won't stick well over the flat paint.
That and they would have to be printed over a white background.
I'll be trying something new this build.
I picked up some full sheet shipping labels.
These are Avery brand, #15265.
The only disadvantage I could see, the package advertises "UltraHold Adhesive". This might not allow much re-positioning.
A full sheet will be sprayed orange then the horizontal bands will be cut.
The closest orange I could find was Rusto 2X Real orange.
It's probably a little darker than the Estes kit orange, but I'm to the point where I just want to get this one finished!
Sunday, March 29, 2015
The Rustoleum green wasn't close to olive drab.
With a 40% off coupon for Hobby Lobby I bought some Model Master paint at a reasonable price.
This is probably the best hobby paint out there. Great coverage and the small can goes pretty far.
With the body tube at about 4" diameter you can fit your hand in there.
I put a plastic grocery bag over my arm to hold the lower half for painting.
The Testor's flat paint should feather in and blend well. You couldn't get a blend with gloss paint.
Saturday, March 28, 2015
A light shot of white shows some lines running down the Titebond M&TG fillets.
The inset picture is after some light sanding with 400 grit wrapped around a Q-tip for cushioned sanding. Light sanding takes down the ridges. The paint that is left even helps fill the slight furrows.
You can be as careful as you can when smoothing out the Titebond M&TG fillets, but there will be lines at the sides and glue boogers at the ends.
I thought I might get by with some Rusto 2X Hunter Green. The TLP instructions say olive drab or dark green should be used. This Hunter Green isn't close to olive drab.
This will be a big model to spray. I may have to pay the extra for two cans of the Testor's Master Modeler paint.
Before anybody comments about using a gloss paint - I know.
I spray gloss colors for better decal adhesion and transfers. You can always hit the model with a dull coat over the glossy decals and paint.
Friday, March 27, 2015
Jim (qquake2k on TRF) posed an interesting question:
"Does anybody have any suggestions for bending a Troll doll's arms? I need to bend them forward a little bit. I've thought about heating or cutting. I'm afraid enough heat to bend the arms might melt the hair. And I'm afraid cutting would just hack it up. Any ideas?"
That first post didn't give a reason why he needed to bend the arms.
"Using some of your suggestions, I decided to go for it. I wrapped the hair with a wet paper towel, and used a small butane torch to heat the arms, one at a time. As you can see, I was a bit too aggressive at first. But I found that if I kept the torch farther away and kept it moving, just as the plastic began to smoke a tiny bit, I could bend the arm. After bending both arms a bit, I got him to fit in the tube."
That last line: ". . . I got him to fit in the tube" gave it away.
Truly a worthy payload for the upscale X-Ray.
The Troll space suit completes the look and conveniently hides any evidence of the elbow abuse.
Jim, that's a great looking X-Ray.
Thursday, March 26, 2015
In a comment, Jim asked to see some other models in the fleet.
Here's the Shelf Queens, the models that don't fly!
(Yes, they are in a kitchen cabinet. I'm single and can get away with this.)Most are Dr. Zooch models, two Semroc Deci-Scales, an Estes 260 Space Booster and three different sizes of Mercury Redstones.
Most have flown -
The 260 Space Booster, MPC Nike Smoke, Zooch Aries Stick, Zooch Little Joe I, Zooch Jupiter C, Zooch Atlas Agena B, Zooch SLS and the Zooch Titan IIIC.
The stands are small squares of cardboard with an engine casing glued on the center. CLICK HERE
The small red stands are the bases of the plastic champagne glasses from the Dollar Tree store. CLICK HERE
I took this one out of the cabinet to get a better picture -
The Dr. Zooch Space Shuttle.
This one isn't completely finished. The nose cap needs paint, a launch lug is missing and the elevon elastic hasn't been tied on.
I know - it's not a rocket unless it has flown!
Some of these (like the Zooch Soyuz and a second Zooch Saturn V) have too much build time in them. I don't want to see flight damage!