Sunday, November 23, 2014
Here's the rear of the main body tube after primer filler was shot.
I didn't bother with Titebond M&TG fillets on the launch lug sides.
This area will be covered by the jet tubes.
The bottom of the jet tubes didn't get primer.
The bottom was left "naked" for gluing later.
When the primer was sanded down I noticed a shallow crimp in the body tube.
The crimp wasn't bad but might get deeper after a hard landing. I decided to reinforce the tube with an internal coupler.
I can't insert it from the rear, there's already a coupler joining the two tubes.
It will be slid in place from the top using and engine casing over a dowel.
Glue was applied in the tube using a dowel.
After the coupler was in place the excess glue was picked up with a Q-tip taped to a dowel.
Hopefully when the next coat of primer is sanded down, you won't see any crimp.
Looking for some "Future Build" inspiration?
Stop by the BARCLONE website
I haven't been to the website for a while -
Craig McGraw (and friends) are busy designers!
Ever feel like your original designs have started looking the same?Scroll through the Barclone designs to jump start creativity.
There are plenty of upscales, downscales, sport scale, fantasy designs and clones.
If you ever wanted to stage a Cherokee D or Red Max this should be your first stop!
Saturday, November 22, 2014
Estes is having a Black Friday Sale! CLICK HERE
The Mega Mosquito aren't shown on the Clearance pages, but do a search and they show up on sale for $8.29. All four of the original Pro Series II kits are only $26.99
Free Shipping on orders over $29.95!
Before strengthening the tubes with CA glue, check to see if any of the inside spirals are lifting.
You should use white glue to set the lifted inside edge down. For some reason, CA glue doesn't hold down any lifting wrap end very well.
Sneak some white glue under the lifted edge with the tip of your knife.
Roll the end down with a clean dowel.
The outside of the tube (over the interior lift edge) can be strengthened some with some medium CA.
A drop was set down and the excess picked up with a Q-tip.
Sand with 400 grit after it dries.
Here's some of the fins set down on a piece of cardboard for primer spraying.
They are set down on masking tape, sticky side up.
The root edges are butted against each other to keep the primer off the gluing surfaces.
Friday, November 21, 2014
It's not really needed anyway. The launch lug is glued directly opposite the engine hook. The jet tubes glue beside the lug.
The wing assembly glues over the tube ad onto the jet tubes.
You can pretty much do this by eye without marking the tube.
I've never liked Mylar rings over the outside of a minimum diameter model. After that ring is glued over the engine hook, you are supposed to glue two jet tubes, a launch lug and upper fin assembly over the raised Mylar ring! Nothing will sit flat against the body tube with the ring in the way.
I decided to use a rectangle of 110 lb. card stock instead.
I drew what I though was the right size on the body tube. The rectangle hold down piece ended up being larger at 1 1/8" x 2".
Cut to this size it won't interfere with any fin or tubes glued to the body tube.
A thin coat of white glue was applied to the back and the card stock piece was smoothed out with my Sharpie burnisher.
There have been plenty of Bat themed models over the years,
There was the Centuri Acro-Bat in 1964 and the SAI Min Bat Boost glider, but the models shown below have the scalloped fin or bat wing designs.
Here are some of the Batman themes:
NUMBER: KB-8 or #5038
Only available as a kit in 1968
This was a design contest winner by Ron Maggiano
Original Centuri Instructions are HERE
I built a Semroc repro and painted mine gray, black and yellow trim reflecting the Batman comic book costume.
It was lost, drifted over the fence and into a back yard.
This is the Estes - THE BAT (Kit # 1362)
available from 1981 - 1984.
Not my favorite design.
John Bergsmith did a review of this clone on rocketreviews.com
Photo on right by John Bergsmith.
The Estes HYPER BAT (KIT # 7217)
It's a two stager. The fins remind me of a more recent Batman movie logo.
None of the kits are titled "Batman".
The rights to the name would have been very expensive.
Thursday, November 20, 2014
The Estes Equinox version is on the left, the Centuri Scram Jet on the right.
The "H" piece (upper left) in the Estes Equinox goes across connecting the vertical fins. The small rudders (Part I) were added to the Estes kit.
On the right the Centuri Scram Jet pieces are fewer and simpler.
I cut these out of 1/16" thick basswood.
CWF was brushed over the body tube joint seam.
The inset picture is the filled joint after sanding.
After assembling the model, that joint is almost covered by the jet tubes (Part F) and the upper fin assembly.
You probably wouldn't even see the joint if it wasn't filled.