Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Estes Equinox Build Part 10, Paint Problems and Success

I've been doing any spray painting later in the day, right after sunset.
It's just too hot and humid in Central Florida, that effects the spray painting. (This was painted in August.)
I will assemble the Equinox in sub assemblies.
The jet tubes were sprayed with Testor's Master Modeler Gunmetal.
I've had great luck with the Testor's spray paint before, but not this time!
The jet tubes and fins are beyond hope and will be thrown away.
I'll cut new 4" long BT-5 tubes and sub fins.

On the other hand, the Rusto 2X gloss white came out great!
On the left you can see the card stock cover over the engine hook.
It came out very smooth.

The inset picture shows the previously crimped area of the tube. The crimp indentation is gone and can't be seen.

Custom P.O.N.G. at Seattle Museum of Flight

Bill Stine referred my name to Custom Rockets about building a Custom PONG kit for the Seattle Museum Of Flight rocketry display. I had one upstairs, finished and never flown! CLICK HERE
The is the same model that was built on the blog. It was to sent to Custom Rockets for consideration.

At the last NARAM, submitted models were voted on to be included in the Model Rocketry display. CLICK HERE 
Along with the chosen NARAM models, each major rocket kit vendor will have a model from their product line. This PONG model will represent Custom Rockets.

Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Quest Response to "Out Of Stock"

After much speculation about igniters and supplies, Bill Stine posted this on TRF: 

OK, here's an official response from Quest:

First, NO, Q2G2 igniters are NOT gone forever and you will be able to purchase them again soon (both shorts and longs). The version that comes packed with the motors will not have any difference at all from the "originals" you guys love! But due to new pending BATF regulations, the ones sold as accessories are going to have a slightly different pyrogen on them - but you likely won't notice any difference.

And yes, we have been out of stock on A's, and then B's and then C6-5's. New production was completed in September and was expected to arrive via ocean freight then. Some regulations on shipping HazMat materials have recently changed in China - and we had to test new shipping cartons. Unexpected after unexpected delays just keep happening, and therefore I won't announce a "solid" arrival date now. but it will be soon...

We appreciate your patience and loyalty.

As to quality, the Quest China motors are very bit as reliable and safe as Estes BP motors (NAR MESS reports certainly support this). They are not made in a fireworks factory and the AQL process and testing is every bit as tough as it was in our own US factory years ago. In fact they are made from military grade BP - it just has a slightly slower burn rate than the US BP does. Most folks love our slightly slower burns, especially the C's. Teachers especially like the slower burn times because the kids get a bigger thrill out of slower boost that they can see...

The merger with AeroTech has been great, but of course there have been some "bumps". Running out of motors certainly was the biggest one...

We hope to have some new product announcements soon that I think the rocketry community will get a big buzz out of.

Bill Stine

Estes Equinox Build Part 9, Fin Assembly Mask and Undercoat

Here's the two fin assemblies.
Half of the Centuri Scram Jet is on the left,
The Estes Equinox on the right.

The slots on the top of the Equinox fin unit have been filled with CWF and sanded smooth with 400 grit.

Before spraying a white undercoat, the gluing surfaces were masked off with strips of masking tape.
The lower inside and root edges were taped off.

This is the Equinox sub fin after the first coat of gloss white.
The grain pores in the Tung wood are raised and will have to be sanded down.
You can't smooth sand too much, you might open up the pore beneath the raised pore wall.

Monday, November 24, 2014

Estes Equinox Build Part 8, Fin Assembly and Sub Fin Gluing

The small sub fins were still showing some open fin grain after the primer dried.
Again, this is the Tung wood. The CWF doesn't stay in like it does with balsa.

Here's the Estes Equinox fin unit.
It was glued together now and will be painted a darker gray before the model is glued together.
It actually friction fit together without needing the alignment guide piece.
Fillets are applied now. You couldn't get underneath it if it were glued onto the main body tube.
CWF filler was brushed onto the slots in the top.

There is a "gotcha" in the instructions at the "Sub Fin Attachment" section.
The instructions say the fins are glued even with the end of the tube. The illustration shows the trailing edge is forward of the tube edge.

I glued the sub fins forward by 1/4", like the instruction drawing shows.

Model Profile B.A.R. FLY

This was one of the first models I built after getting back into the hobby around 2005.
This was supposed to be an "All-In-One" BT-60 based rocket. It has a 24mm mount for D engines and an added 18/24mm adapter mount.

Looking back on it now, I would have made it differently.
The balsa grain was well filled, the body tube and lug seams weren't. The fin edges are square.
The elastic shock cord is only 1/8" wide and way too short.
The 12" mylar parachute is probably small, but has a Nomex protector threaded through the shock cord.
Two different lugs, a 1/8" and 3/16".
The name and trim stripes were cut from vinyl at the Sea World sign shop.
I would have set the type differently. To me it looks like "Barf"-ly, not Bar Fly.
It was probably painted with the old formula Krylon.
This one has never been flown.

Sunday, November 23, 2014

Estes Equinox Build Part 7, Tube Primer and Tube Reinforcement

Here's the rear of the main body tube after primer filler was shot.

I didn't bother with Titebond M&TG fillets on the launch lug sides.
This area will be covered by the jet tubes.

The bottom of the jet tubes didn't get primer.
The bottom was left "naked" for gluing later.

When the primer was sanded down I noticed a shallow crimp in the body tube.
The crimp wasn't bad but might get deeper after a hard landing. I decided to reinforce the tube with an internal coupler.

I can't insert it from the rear, there's already a coupler joining the two tubes.
It will be slid in place from the top using and engine casing over a dowel.

Glue was applied in the tube using a dowel.
After the coupler was in place the excess glue was picked up with a Q-tip taped to a dowel.
Hopefully when the next coat of primer is sanded down, you won't see any crimp.