On the right is the before, the inset picture shows the end block after being cleaned up with 220 grit on a block.
The edges were rounded by hand sanding with 220 grit. The rounded end makes and easier insertion in the tube without peeling up the inside tube wraps.
After the nose block is glued halfway into the short upper tube,
the clay weight is pressed into the tube.
Don't insert all the clay at one time!
Press some in place and insert the nose cone shoulder. Add more clay until the base of the nose cone is against the top of the clay.
The fins on the Corporal are small and the clay weight is needed for stability.
I used as much of the clay as I could fit in the tube and still fully insert the nose cone.
.32 oz. of clay was left meaning just over 1/2 oz of clay is in the model.
Hi! I am brand new to rocket building. Last week, I finished building Estes' Der Red Max, and despite my inexperience, it turned out great!
ReplyDeleteI see here (and I've seen it on other rocketry sites) that you are adding weight to the nose cone. Why do you do this? Do you want to add weight to all nose cones? Should I attempt to add some weight to my plastic nose cones, even if it's not stated in the instructions?
Thanks for the information!
Hi Daniel,
ReplyDeleteYou won't need to add any nose weight to the Red Max, or any commercially available kit unless they tell you to do so. It'll fly fine without it.
Sometimes rockets with smaller fins (like the ASP Corporal) need the nose weight to put the Center Of Gravity (or C/G) farther forward.
Odd ball and some shorter models need the extra weight to fly stable.
Enjoy the Red Max! It's a classic.